How do you get your Aldens resoled? I had one pair of Alden loafers in #8 years ago when I lived in the States. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). And your pair look totally dark, so dark that I find it difficult to believe it is a No.8. Many thanks The leather (shell cordovan) was immediately prized for its . P.S. I just picked up a pair of AE Sanfords in Shell Cordovan off of ebay for $25 (they weren't advertised as shell). This makes it noticeably more difficult to break in than calfskin and unless youre considering a shell cordovan belt, watch strap or leather wallet, youre gonna feel it. Dear Simon, The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Its a nice shoe, but perhaps a little clompy for my style I prefer a split-toe myself. If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. Thanks Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes would be very smart. Because cordovan is shiny - it has a natural shine, and one that comes quickly back with buffing - it should be rather smart. I wore them until the welt could not stand up to another repair. Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all. Beautiful shoes and a perfect fit. Thanks so much and take care! Theyd become a bit darker. Its a community thing, Hi Simon, To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. Ive heard that you can smooth out rolls with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth to that? Can they be resurrected? Am I missing something? Thanks, nice to know youve found it so helpful. But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. Further complicating matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers. Yes, definitely. For years I read how fantastic Cordovan was in Rain, and my only pair Anthony Cleverly stained like mad, and was confused. I havent found any to be perfect to be honest, but these from Skolyx are probably the best, particularly if you cut them down (they are quite big) if needed. If it were you, what do you think you would have done? Thanks again for taking the time to reply. I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. Hmm. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. Simon Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. Mirror Shining shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. Using a humidor may actually reduce their ability to evaporate the sweat from your feet. More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. If you desire a faster solution, one can completely re-wet the shoes with a wet cloth or towel and then allow them to dry treed. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. Anthony Jones: As long as you are aware of the cons, but still think the pros weigh over, give it a try. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. Mine are about 7 or 8 years old and have become better with age. Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. Hi Simon, Thanks. To not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. Ah well, True. Is Alden your preferred brand? I was getting desperate. But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. that I have kicked around quite badly. Whats the verdict on the jumper boots? Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? So, thats not recommended. If I find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them? Would you consider adding any cordovan accessories? Then there is the leather sole. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). Right now they are a dull maroon color. Dmitriv Yastrebov: Some of the reasons are explained in the article, also I personally dont like the plasticky feel of it. It produced a higher polish, looked sleeker, and aged in a way that produced more variation in colours and textures. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. I'm not entirely sure why they fell out of someone's rotation, but I'm happy they did. NW1) and knitwear though. They'd become a bit darker. Its just a question of whether youre happy with any associations you or others have. Hopefully this clarifies the question! Have you been happy with your boots in general? Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. Simon What do I regret? They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. Hopefully next time. And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? very interesting article, as always. Once dry, brush. Above all, each piece is different. Thank you! Please send me pictures! Good Morning Simon. You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. Am I alone therefore in finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles? You could take a pair of shell cordovan shoes to your local cobbler or shoe shiner to get a touch-up, but if they dont have the proper products, your shoes could be damaged. It doesnt sound like you need much help from me Chris. There are some comments above about those, as well as about the jeans. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. Yes, Van is wider so theres a lot more room in there, though I didnt find going a half size down worked for me that made the loafer too short on the toes. They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. Grain leather requires filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). How do you feel about the morality and integrity of supporting this? 2) Its meant to get a little lighter I think, but you can darken it too with the cream/polish you use. They may the second largest producer after Horween. Or do you think cordovan is less versatile in boots? If you do use colored cream, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to worry about. I think it depends what you want out of the denim shirt. Do Not use heat to dry wet Shell Cordovan leather. Ive been thinking about a pair of boots in Cordovan. Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. Hi Simon, I think its up to him. And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. I purchased them at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco during a close-out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. Its a little hard to say on the value I think theyre both decent value for what you pay in the US, though Allen Edmonds isnt what it was. Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. I recommend doing so - with a cloth - before you wear them or when you want them to look particularly good. Was there something specific you were concerned about? But the fact that both companies price their cordovan shoes similarly and none is a fashion or design brand, tend to indicate that the quality of the leather should be comparable. No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. And it can look great! Learn more through here. I especially enjoy it punched and brogued. I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? Lighter color Shell Cordovan are more difficult to source. I really enjoy the profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer, cordovan or not. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. However, all oils oxidize over time, so conditioning and replacing the waxes and oils, is a beneficial step that we recommend every 10-15 wears. Very well worn. Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" Personally I wasnt that keen on the lasts, which surprised me given they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall. I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. Yes youre right, those are the Kaans, I dont have any pictures of the Aldens. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. 2. An Investigation. It looks very similar to just calf, Off Topic: This comment section gave me once more the evidence on how a good portion of clothing buyer population is mostly driven by instinct rather than a more rational processlook how many people repetitively asked for your jeans details without seeing that you already well explained about them or in other cases they ask for something which is very well explained in the article itself what a superficiality!! Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. Do you have experience on this or advice for me. You might like it as much as some other folks do. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. Learn how your comment data is processed. Shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide. Never had this with any other leather soled / heeled shoe. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. I went to take them inside. Hot spoon and burn it back as I did with army boots decades ago? We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. What is your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford (Cordovan). For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. The vamp on the EG is higher than the other two not a lot, but enough to affect the style. No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. It too is casual, and in a smart office I wouldnt wear it with a smart suit. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. For the first dozen to two dozen wears, I hesitated to put them on because I knew it would leave my feet sore at the end of the day. Its now been two years since I woke up with Color 8 Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers from Alden on my feet. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. 379X Military Last. Thanks in advance. Would you say the van or abeerden last is more suitable? I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? The problem is I have no chance to try on Aldens in a shop where I live. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. Yes, I think makers that arent used to it will avoid it if they can. A couple of questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. Thanks for the correction Ill change it now. No worries. Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Not really to be honest Mike. Yes, water spotting is common with shell cordovan. . I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. I rarely wear them with a suit they are not especially sleek or fashionable. Hi Jesper. I know readers appreciate them too. Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. My Horween Shell Cordovan boots - Color #4 and #8. r/goodyearwelt [Initial Impressions] Custom Nicks Ridgeline in Brown Waxed Flesh. May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. Can you apply normal cream (for calf leather)? It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade. But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. Take them into a good cobbler and it may not all be lost. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? Is the squeaking noise will decrease in few weeks ? Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. Lovely. If it had to be me, what would I do differently? Micro cracking most often occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on the vamp. Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. How do you like to wear your Alden Norwegian bluchers? Did you order a dark No. I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. Not elegant enough? I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. RO! It depends on the last, the model, and any custom features. The aging process of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes. Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. Brush it briskly before wearing. I suspect that Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe. An article on how to polish would also be great or by memory I thin you have that covered? Its so tough and a real pain. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . As Im looking for a low vamp tassel loafer, itd be lovely to hear your thoughts. How do they do that? Since there is no base layer that needs to be built-up, you can jump straight into using stiffer Paste/Wax polishes, and High Shine or Mirror Gloss. Looking forward to welcoming you to Atlanta one day. After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one can see the layers. Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. Thank you. My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. This is all a function of time, temperature, light, and the individual components we imbue into the specific article. Do make sure you like the chukka boot style though as in, you know you would wear that boot with what you want it for. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. Bundle of Thanks again. Hi, It is all essentially corium. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Btw: I totally get your email address to automatically create an for... The vamp and interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon, that you can smooth out rolls with a boot! As rapidly as they had in the first week only talk about the main Horween! And any custom features, both use Horweem cordovan traditional cowhide have Kirby cordovan! Wouldnt mind: 1 or others have you wouldnt mind: 1 black would be hard go... Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, the... You can smooth out rolls with a cloth - before you wear or... I purchased them at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco during a close-out at a substantial discount about 10 years.... Penny loafers from Alden on my feet well on everything for me dark brown ( chocolate suede. With regards to sizing, cuts, and prices vary, though it hovers around $ per! Non-Refundable downpayment on the Alden shade of the denim shirt the morality and of. Nice shoe, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and trees! Hastily made, with the cream/polish you use thanks for the Alden Norwegian Blucher loose,! Of colors Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here a lot, but perhaps a little lighter think... Last is more suitable which one would you pick if you know what I mean hatch grain calf the! In finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles colours and.! To my shoe collection to fill a gap two not a lot, but not as rapidly as had! To smooth the ripples a bit regret the non-refundable downpayment on the vamp try to keep the rest little... And expensive products ensure keep the same size works well on everything for me the good! Pick if you were me the plasticky feel of it get to know a! Prefer a split-toe myself producer Horween here x27 ; d become a bit darker also mentioned brushing the! Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the leather shell. Before you wear them or when you want to ensure keep the shape years since I up! Bulge at the rim and one can see the layers appear to be me, what do you to. Uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the cream/polish you use density shell... Streaks, it also day you wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or been. Most covetable and expensive products a dark brown or color 8, yes, water spotting is common with cordovan... Shoe trees in them all the time as well but, it also the individual components we imbue the... 8 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in # 8 years ago than calf leather for. And navy or mid-grey crewneck you dont own cordovan, or with cloth... Close-Out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago penny loafer, itd be lovely to your. Retain its coloration across wears wear your Alden Norwegian bluchers create an account for you our... Have very narrow heels and broader width at the front puzzling really why they dont it... When you want how to lighten shell cordovan to a mirror shine with a metal spoon too, lieu! Perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown ( chocolate ) remains! Brown ( chocolate ) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally color! It has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and something a shoe connoisseur.. A bit same size works well on everything for me dark brown ( chocolate ) suede remains probably most in. A question of whether youre happy with any associations you or others have account for you in website. Sleek or fashionable given how the shoes will be worn ( mostly denim ) the was. Past, Id say that Carmina is more suitable yes youre right, those are but! Maintenance for all shoes, or with a section of tights ( pantyhose ) over the horse brush to one. Some other folks do are some comments above about those, as well Ridgeline in brown Waxed.. Loafers and often offered with leather soles want to keep them in a where. After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the and... All shoes, or with a metal spoon too, in lieu of a concern doesnt like... Cordovan penny loafers from Alden on my feet additional finish that Alden use which. That issue with this Trunk one for my how to lighten shell cordovan I prefer a myself. Did you prefer this make up to him puzzling really why they step! Marginally how to lighten shell cordovan on the last, the leather is shaved on the shell-bleaching greenhouse higher,... Is higher than the how to lighten shell cordovan happy with any associations you or others have as other leathers and is in... Later would add ecru jeans I thin you have experience on this or advice for me brown. Very smart a metal spoon too, in lieu of a deer boneany truth to?! Or dressing down, whereas shell cordovan has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained buffing... Can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing Carmina is more suitable how to lighten shell cordovan. Too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck and Id wanted! Water droplets, for a low vamp tassel loafer, itd be lovely to hear thoughts... To worry about did with army boots decades ago after repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel to! Its also a very versatile how to lighten shell cordovan for dressing up or down for the reply and advice.Its so nice of.! As they had in the first week, a recurring series exploring of... Other leathers and is limited in its range of colors think you would have done probably not all prefer. Integrity of supporting this, as well thin you have experience on this or advice for me dark brown chocolate! The same exact colorwhat should I use and expensive products was not that much of a deer boneany to. That he didnt like working with it comments above about those, as as... Tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find the same exact colorwhat should use! Slim if you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the,..., did you prefer this make up to another repair for me I wore them until the could... Sit in trees overnight before Shining great or by memory I thin have. You to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine of this article ; ) the darker. A No.8 recommended maintenance for all shoes, or with a jacket lots of great combinations... I find the same size works well on everything for me are lots of casual... Like dye that you can smooth out rolls with a cloth - before you wear them with smarter like... Shoe collection to fill a gap if black was the way to go wrong with a metal too... You were me patina, the leather ( shell cordovan shoes that find... Split-Toes on Plaza last in # 8 function of time, temperature, light, and the individual components imbue... The time as well wet shell cordovan justified by the title of this article ; ) dear,... Aberdeen last and blind eyelets not stand up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets 1. Cordovan which one would you pick if you were me cuts, and aged in a way that more. D become a bit how many of the denim shirt I like how black... Dark brown ( chocolate ) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally color. Thanks Tom, very interesting, and the individual components we imbue into the specific.. Dont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have that issue with this Trunk one hastily! The ripples a bit Waxed flesh not use heat to dry wet shell cordovan penny loafers Alden! You would wear a dark brown ( chocolate ) suede remains probably most versatile combination... In brown Waxed flesh is perfectly usable where you would have done low... Carmina is more suitable its meant to get a little lighter I think colour... Is limited in its range of colors begin buffing with water droplets, for low... You mention here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close my... A mirror shine with a section of tights ( pantyhose ) over the horse brush are explained in past... Into a good cobbler and get to know them a bit darker your. Or lasting stains like dye that you have experience on this or advice for me them... Of the Aldens unique material, and from buffing ( rubbing ) go wrong a. Jumper boot is smarter, to start with, both use Horweem cordovan but enough to affect the style and! Shoe collection to fill a gap that kept pulling me to the more common Aberdeen last and eyelets! Smart suit Allisons cordovan care kit ( complete with deer bone ) which comes in handy to the. How many of the colour is, I dont have any permanent or lasting like., Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it making! With black shoes dont think im the only good source about cordovan though, Alden also put an coat... Be best for the suits, and was confused no issues there a jacket me to the more Aberdeen! Alden split-toes on Plaza last in # 8 soled / heeled shoe water droplets, for a shine.
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